Bali Portrait Photography Workshop with Sebastian Belaustegui

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During my visit to Bali in June I did a private photography workshop with excellent photographer Sebastian Belaustegui (no, I can’t pronounce his sirname either), who specialises in low light portraiture and has work published for major institutions like National Geographic, Time and UNICEF. I met Suki (his nickname) when he was filling in as instructor on an earlier workshop that week. It’s not every day that you run into such a talented and experienced photographer so I asked if I could do a private workshop with him, and luckily for me he agreed. The first day of the workshop he reviewed my portfolio and gave me some enlightening lectures, and on the second he took us into the field for some photography. I should note straight away that although I took these photos, they’re the really the work of Suki, who made the connections, set the scenes, found the light and directed me throughout.

Sebastian Belaustegui, or Suki, to anyone that knows him!

Sebastian Belaustegui, or Suki, to anyone that knows him!

After reviewing my portfolio, Suki rightly identified that my weakest area was portraits, so on day two he took me out to the very traditional settlement of Tenganan which is full of friendly locals who are happy to get their photographs taken. Tenganan is a heritage site and is made up of two small villages. Its one of the only surviving places in Bali which preserves the old architecture and traditions making it a popular cultural tourist attraction. Suki had visited before and had printed off a bunch of photos to give to the people he photographed last time, also giving us an easy way to break the ice and open the door for us to take more photographs.

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When we arrived at the smaller of the villages, which is much less touristy, we walked around the back streets and Suki found the first house he wanted to visit, inhabited by a friendly lady who owns a craft shop and her mother. Many of the mid-generation in Tenganan speak English but the elders don’t, so we had translation help from the daughter and our handy driver. The grandmother was happy for us to take photos of her and Suki showed me how to search for good natural light inside their house – which here generally don’t have glass windows, instead using shuttered openings, allowing the sunlight to stream in and creating a nice ambience in the darker corners.

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Watching Suki work first of all, I watched how he carefully directed grandma’s pose and angle to the light. She’d changed to a more traditional outfit for us. The faces in Tenganan are so expressive and have a lot of character, it’s a joy to photograph these people. Then it was my turn, and I followed Suki’s lead by directing grandma and practicing different angles. I was using fully manual settings, which is something I’m still getting to grips with, and was careful to underexpose in order to create the required moody effect and darken the background to isolate her face. The tricky part is getting focus right on the eye, as you’re using a very low aperture its easy to get the focus slightly off.

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Bidding farewell to the friendly ladies and wandering the village on a scorching day, we visited another house that Suki had been to before. The elders of the family were again happy to help and we went inside their dark kitchen to get some dramatic light. Suki is a master at finding perfect lighting and in a minute can position his models in just the right spot. The friendly grandmother was well humoured as I experimented with different angles and positions and her blue top made for a striking contrast to the dark lighting.

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The youngest generation watched us with interest and I managed to snap this shot in the doorway when they were distracted.

The youngest generation watched us with interest and I managed to snap this shot in the doorway when they were distracted.

One thing I was conscious of is that because I was playing with settings and worrying about getting good shots, I would pay less attention to the composition and small things I could do to improve the shot. Suki is very good at iterating on what he starts off with, making minor changes to the model, whether its clothing, accessories, position, pose and quickly reviewing and changing again until he gets a perfect shot, something I can learn from.

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The grandfather then came in and I had quite a bit of time to pose him as I saw fit – taking inspiration from Suki’s style I tried to get him in darkness with highlights which I think worked well.

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The villagers throughout the day were very patient and great to work with – it was hard to banter with the elders as they don’t speak English but I think through politeness and smiles you can still somewhat cross the communication barrier. Suki is a very friendly and likeable guy with a lot of energy and immediately connects with people. He’s completely unafraid to approach strangers and strike up a rapport and they’re usually happy for him to take photos, especially in such a friendly place as Bali. This is a guy who fearlessly went out in his early twenties alone into the middle of South America to live with tribespeople for months. He’s also respectful and not pushy which I think is an important quality with this type of photography. Placing an emphasis on education and cultural exchange rather than exploitation aligns with my own views. For me, his ease with people is an inspiration, I definitely struggle when approaching and interacting with strangers in this kind of scenario and whilst taking photographs it can be hard to engage with your models when you’re focused on the practicalities. However, I’m getting better and watching someone like Suki at work dealing with these issues with ease was a good experience for me.

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After some lunch we then went to the main Tenganan village, which is usually very touristy. However we were quite lucky in that it was really quiet that day. This is a beautiful place centred around the main street full of red stone homes in the traditional Balinese style which also double as craft shops. Tenganan is famous for its double-weaving textiles with colourful patterns – but there’s plenty of other craftmanship here such as wood carvings, paintings and stonework. We began by visiting a friendly weaver who speaks good English and showed me how the weaving process works. Double weaving is very time-consuming with some pieces taking months to make, but they are popular among collectors as it’s unique to this place and fetches good prices. Suki picked the kitchen once again for some portraits and the weaver removed his top for us for some dramatic humanity shots.

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By now I was grasping the low light techniques better and it was easier to have a model who could understand my directional pointers, whilst Suki as ever reviewed my shots and made suggestions for improvement.

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As we continued onwards, Suki spotted another woman that he’d met, and she invited us to come to a birthday ceremony up the road. We followed her to a side street with a marquee and many locals dressed traditionally for a boy’s coming of age ceremony. The clothes were colourful and there were plenty of Balinese snacks on offer, including some sticky sugary concoction in a long bamboo wrapper which coiled off in a spiral, an ingenious idea (once the girl helpfully pointed out that I was doing it wrong!). We got chatting to a beautiful girl there, who was the birthday boy’s sister. She spoke good English too and had an amazing outfit so we asked if we could take a few photos. She works in a lab yet lives in this very traditional place, one of the many strange blends of ancient and modern you’ll find in this village. Inside her parent’s shaded compound next door, Suki found some good light and we got some good shots, and then I hunted for some other locations and found a spot where the strong sunlight was diffused a bit and the light was perfect (the last photo in the post). We thanked the girl and the hosts and headed off to our last stop.

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We dropped in on another weaver who Suki knew, a really nice fellow who’s considered one of the best weavers in the village and does pretty well for himself. Like many of the other craft shops, the walls were adorned with colourful material for sale, which made for a nice backdrop. I hunted down some good light and again Suki asked the man to remove his top for a more authentic look than the usual branded t-shirts that most villagers wear. I also took the opportunity to get a few shots of my teacher!

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It had been a long day and we headed back to Ubud to review the photos and Suki picked out the ones you see here today as his favourites. These haven’t been post-processed either which is testament to how good he is at getting the right light. Gentleman that he is, he even invited me to join him and his daughter for dinner out that evening which I happily accepted. It had been a great few days and looking at these photos, I now have a high benchmark to aim for with my portraits. I also learned a lot from seeing how Suki works, both with people and spotting good light – it really raised my awareness on what light creates dramatic portraits and how to use it well. I learned ways to improve my compositions and model posing too, if you look at my other portraits you’ll notice a tendency for front-on photographs of people – since the workshop I’m exploring more interesting angles to work from. Suki is a real inspiration for me with his passion, outlook and talent and it was a pleasure to study with him, maybe one day I will eventually be able to reach his level! I also felt a lot of gratitude to the wonderful people of Tenganan who are some of the most friendly and hospitable folk that you’ll ever meet, very welcoming to strangers and eager to please. Great experience, one I will grow from as a photographer and I won’t forget!

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Suki runs photography workshops in exotic locations over the globe every few months, check out his Facebook page for details.  I can definitely say you will learn a lot both practically and from his great outlook with other cultures (and no, I’m not being paid or anything to plug him, he’s just a top bloke!). Also, be sure to check out the amazing photos on his website, what an inspiring photographer!

Bali Photography Workshop – David Metcalf Day Tour – Part 2

Continuing my Bali day tour workshop with David Metcalf Photography.

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Our next stop was the family compound of an old guy who raises fighting cocks – the sport is popular in Bali, although technically illegal it still attracts many followers. This man is one of the models that the tour uses, paying him to pose for photographs and giving the photographers time to experiment and practice. He changed into his traditional Balinese clothes for our photo session.

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Our group leader Suki specialises in dramatic portraits and gave us some tips. Just watching how he took photos himself was a good learning experience. Adjusting the background, the angle of the shot and directing the man to pose differently all helped to create good shots under the shade of a cover. Then we were let loose ourselves taking turns to photograph the rooster man.

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Rooster man then moved inside to a small room with a single light source from the open window. Suki positioned him to get the perfect light and then we went in individually to practice the composition and settings to get a good shot. There was no camera wizardry needed, the light was so good in there that it made it instantly dramatic. Covering the window half-way with cloth also helped. The results were pretty amazing and rooster man patiently waited whilst we snapped away for ages.

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Next we were driven down the narrow roads to the family home of the usual group leader Nyman, into a nice garden where his wife served us some delicious lunch with some dishes I’d never experienced. Then a local village girl came out for photographs and to perform a traditional dance for us. Her costume and makeup was amazing and she put on the makeup herself! We experimented with different locations in the garden to shoot her and Suki used a reflector to help with the lighting in darker places. We had more freedom this time to experiment with posing and composition, I moved her to some shadier areas to stop the background being so distracting.

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Then she performed her dance for us and she was amazing.The distinctive hand motions and body movement in this dance are brilliant to watch, combined with the intense facial expressions and powerful eyes which are part of the dance. We snapped away and I found the conditions challenging, though getting low helped and using continuous focus and face recognition really helped to catch an in-focus shot whilst she was moving so quickly.

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Our last stop was a waterfall in the rice fields. We descended many steps into a steep gully, entering a wood. At the end of a stream was this nice waterfall. There were a few other tourists and some Balinese couples. Waterfalls are popular with the locals for a trip out and there are often little stalls to buy food and drink along the path. Here we played around with the tripods and I experimented with long exposures. Suki went for a swim and I got him to pose for me in front of the waterfall and I’m pretty happy with the results.

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It was the end of a long day but it had been brilliant. The locations and models we visited were excellent and it was great to get off the beaten track and see some of the real Bali. Our driver and group leader were also really friendly and helpful. It really inspired me to improve and continue mastering my camera settings too. Sometimes all you need is a fresh perspective to get inspiration! If you’re in Bali and want to go on the tour, you can find more information here

Here’s a gallery of some other photos from this part of the day.

Bali Photography Workshop – David Metcalf Day Tour – Part 1

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Sun rises over the rice paddies, with Mount Batur in the background

A few months ago I was in Bali, Indonesia and decided to splash out on a photography workshop with David Metcalf Photography, found at Taksu Gallery in the artist hub city of Ubud. Ubud is near the centre of the island, and although it’s swarming with tourists and the streets are jammed with traffic, it has a lovely surrounding area of terraced green rice fields, farming villages and volcano views. I’ve finally had time to review the tour on Trip Advisor and sort through the photos, so I thought I would share them here too.

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Group leader Suki shares a photo with lady in the village market

I’ve done a few photography workshops on my travels. The reason I like them, despite their price tag, is because you not only get some great photo opportunities, but you get to experience local culture and usually get off the beaten track a bit. You usually get to meet and photograph the locals whilst you pick up a few photography tips. Obviously I can only take credit for the actual compositions and market shots in these photos, because the rest of the hard work was already taken care of, like location and lighting and local interaction and we were able to get advice from our teacher throughout. In fact for the landscapes, I’m sure you can see very similar images on the tour’s reviews and from other group members on the day.

Our day began crushingly early for my tastes, at about 5am to catch the sunrise. I am really not a morning person, photography is one of the only things that will get me up that early. Swaying around in a zombie-like state, in awe of the locals already emerging to start their day, I was picked up from the centre of Ubud and whisked away to the countryside. We picked up the rest of our small group along the way. Our tutor for the day was filling in for their normal group leader as he was sick (probably of westerners). We got lucky though, as the replacement was an awesome photographer in his own right, a chap called Suki (Sebastian Belaustegui) who does amazing portraits and has worked for publications like National Geographic and Time. This was an unexpected bonus, though I hear that the usual tour leaders are also very good.

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The rising mist from the rice paddies made awesome sun rays come through the trees.

We began at some rice field terraces overlooking the volcano and got lucky with a great sunrise. Tripods were available but it wasn’t long before they became un-necessary as the glaring tropical sun peeked out from the volcano. The air became misty as the sun heated the water-laden rice fields creating some beautiful sun rays through the trees. We wandered around the fields as locals puttered by on their mopeds or set out to work in the fields. There were also a lot of joggers, even at 4am in this country you can see people starting their day with a hearty run in the dark, when in my country the only running going on at that time is to the toilet after a particularly heavy night out.

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This spot was great for silhouettes

I didn’t require too much instruction and just concentrated on getting photos, experimenting with my camera settings. With the sunrise, changing exposure changed the mood a lot – sacrificing brightness had the benefit of revealing the cool sun-rays but at the expense of a darker tone overall. Most of the photos you see here have only minor processing – mainly in exposure or temperature, with some boosted contrast. The highlight of this part was of course me falling backwards into a rice paddy, after mistaking some grassy ground for being solid, when in fact it was more like a swamp. A typical Alan Fail. So I ended up with a muddy back and bum, luckily the camera survived a dunking but was splattered in mud. Thankfully I now use high quality clear filters to protect my lens, so I just removed that and I was good to go.

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This friendly lady was the coffee stall owner

Now the sun was up we were driven to a local village market. We pottered around and got some of our own photo opportunities, and I got chatting to some of the stall owners who were very friendly and spoke some English. Trying to explain where I was from was a little tricky, as no-one seemed to know Scotland, forcing me to bring out the dreaded art “skills” and try to draw an awful world map. We got there in the end, although they probably think the UK is the shape of a deformed sausage now.

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She’ll never know the true shape of Scotland 🙁

We delved into a covered maze-like market full of all kinds of goods, from meat to clothes and stopped at a coffee booth manned by a friendly old lady who didn’t speak English but was happy to get her photo taken. Tucking into some local food and some strong Bali coffee – I soon felt more human. I chatted to our driver Ketut who explained to me about village life and his family. I also learned that although these village markets open really early, the stall owners are already well into their day. They go to large night wholesale markets which open around 2am, to buy perishables like food, and then re-sell at their local market. What a lifestyle!

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Another friendly shop owner

Part 2 of the day is coming soon, here’s a gallery of some other images from the sunrise and market. Enjoy.